Café de Alma

A tiny Bosnian-coffee house in a quiet lane behind the Old Bridge, where the owner roasts every bean on a vintage roaster that still carries shrapnel scars, then sits with each guest to teach the ritual — the kajmak foam, the sugar-cube technique, the unhurried philosophy of čejf. Named for his mother, Alma; no Wi-Fi, cash only, and an hour that asks to be given rather than spent.