Trees and stone terraces in Trsteno Arboretum near Dubrovnik

Chapter 1 · The Journal

Dubrovnik — the Landfall

DubrovnikLate March or September2 nights
The Journal

The Crossing makes landfall at the salt gate — and can close there too. Reserve two nights inside the Old Town walls, a table above the harbour, and the short crossing behind the mountain into Trebinje, held as one itinerary.

Citrus aurantium · Platanus orientalis

  1. Arrive

    Settle inside the ramparts, within walking distance of the marble Stradun and the old apothecary still weighing rose cream behind the walls.

  2. The table

    Dinner above the harbour — Adriatic salt and bitter orange, the first tastes of the route.

  3. Onward

    A thirty-minute crossing of the border hands you into Trebinje and the karst behind the coast.

A parting gift

You leave with a vial of rose water from the 700-year-old Franciscan apothecary, chosen for you by your hosts.