
Chapter 1 · The Journal
The Crossing makes landfall at the salt gate — and can close there too. Reserve two nights inside the Old Town walls, a table above the harbour, and the short crossing behind the mountain into Trebinje, held as one itinerary.
Citrus aurantium · Platanus orientalis
Arrive
Settle inside the ramparts, within walking distance of the marble Stradun and the old apothecary still weighing rose cream behind the walls.
The table
Dinner above the harbour — Adriatic salt and bitter orange, the first tastes of the route.
Onward
A thirty-minute crossing of the border hands you into Trebinje and the karst behind the coast.
A parting gift
You leave with a vial of rose water from the 700-year-old Franciscan apothecary, chosen for you by your hosts.
Where you’ll stay & where the table is set